Sewing-machine



(No Model.) 7 v 10 Sheets-Sheath P. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 574,573. Patented Jan. 5, 1897.

Mi. I

(No Model.) 1o Sheets-Sheet 2. 115'. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jan. 5, 1897.

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, Witnessea: [721/6726025 (No Model. 10 Sheets-Sheet 3.

P. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE. No. 574,573. I Patented Jan. 5, 1897.

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r I 10 Sheets-Shet 4. P. H. RICHARDS.

(No Model.)

SEWING MAG-HINE.

N0. 574,573, Patentd Jan. 5, 1897.

. Inventor.-

Witnesses: Y

Myst! (No Model.) 10 Shets-Sheet 5.

F. H. RICHARDS. SEWING MACHINE.

N0. 574,573. Patented Jan. 5, 1897'.

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(No Model.) 10 Sheets-Sheet 6. P- H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE. No. 574,573..

Patentedl Jan. 5, 1897.

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(Nd Model.) 10 Sheets- Sheet 7.- F. H RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

.N0.574,573. v PatentedJan. S, 1897.

Witnesses.

' 1O sheets -sheet 8.

(No Model.)

B. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jan. 5, 1897.

Witnesses;-

9 t e Ov h S W e h S w R D mm H.A wM G N m E -S P u d o M W Patented Jan. 5. 18974.

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(No Model.) 10 Shets- -Sheet '10.

P. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MAGHINE.

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, Patented Jan; 5,,1'897 Wztnesses:

lower thread and form a lock-stitch, or in mechanism, loop-taking devices, feed mechratio, whereby, for instance, the needle-bar the looptaker makes two complete revolutions, to thereby complete one stitch and tion of the looptaker.

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FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT. a

SEWING-MACHlNE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 574,573, dated January 5, 1897. Application filed December 15, 1894. Serial No. 531,931. (No model.)

To (LZZ whom it may concern.- I

Be it known that I, FRANCIS II; RICHARDS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Hartford, in the county of. Hartford and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to sewing-machines, and has special reference to that class of sewing-machines in which a revoluhle shuttle or loop-taker is employed for making the stitch, and in which the loop of the needle-thread is engaged by the loop-taker and is carried entirely around the same to inclose a second or which one loop of the needle-thread is carried by the loop-taker through a preceding loop to form a chain-stitch.

The object of my present invention is, primarily, to provide a sewing-machine of the class specified having an improved organization of needle-bar mechanism, presser-bar anisin, and actuating mechanism, and to bring these elements into such relation as to secure a greater efficiency and accuracy in operation as compared with machines of this class of usual construction also, to facilitate the assembling and disassembling .of the parts of the machine and at the same time secure compactness, durability, and low cost of construction.

Another object of my invention is to provide, in connection with the needle-bar and loop-taker of a sewing-machine of the class specified, actuating mechanism therefor of an improved and simplified construction and organization adapted for simultaneously imparting relatively varying movements to said needle-bar and loop-taker of a predetermined may have three-complete reciprocations while start another stitch at each complete revolu- Another object of my invention is to furnish a sewing-machine having a needle-bar and presser-bar in substantially axial coincidence one with the other and in which the needle-bar is carried Within bearings formed in the prcsscr-bar to thereby concentrate the applied force of the'presser-foot at a point in direct axial alinement with the needle-bar and at the same time economize in the space required for assembling the needle-bar and presser-bar within the head of the sewingmachine.

In the drawingsaccompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure l is a front elevation ofa sewing-machine embodying my present invention. Fig. 2 is an end view of the sewing-machine as seen from the left hand in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the sewing machine, portions thereof being broken away to more clearly illustrate certain of the details. Fig. 4c is a sectional front elevation of the sewingmachine, showing the needle-bar in its lowest position and also showing, in connection with its presserbar-lifting shaft, an auxiliary lifting device located below the bed-plate of the machine and adapted for operating said lifting-shaft. This figure also shows in full and dotted lines two oppositely-disposed driven gears in connection with each other and carried upon the shuttle-actuating shaft and adapted for reciprocally meshing with opposite faces, respectively, of a driving-gear to facilitate changes in the direction of movement of the shuttleactuating shaft of the machine, as seen from the right hand in Fig. 1. Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view of a portion of the arm of the ma chine, on an enlarged scale, showing the pmsser-bar-liftin g shaft, a portion of its operating-rod, and the tension device controlled by said presser-bar-lifting shaft, said figure showing said parts in their operative position, the lifting-shaft being depressed and the tension device being in position to exertatension upon the needle-thread. Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, showing said parts in their normal or inoperative position. Figs. 8, 9, and 10 are enlarged sectional views of the feed-lever-actuatin g device and the regulator therefor, said figures, respectively, showing three different positions of the regulator and illustrating the operation of these devices. Figs. 11and 12 are sectional end views of portions of the sewingmachine head on an enlarged scale, as seen from the left hand in Fig. 1, said figures showing two extreme positions of the needle-bar and presser-bar and their actuating devices. Fig. 13 is a sectional rear elevation of a portion of the head of the machine as seen from the left hand in Fig. 11. Fig. It is a crosssectional view of a portion of the arm of the machine, showing the depressing-arm for the presser-bar-operating shaft. Fig. is a sectional plan view of the bed-plate of the seving-machine,showingthefeed-dog,feed-lever, and the actuating mechanism therefor, a portion of the bed-plate being broken away and two positions of said parts being shown in full and dotted lines, respectively. Fig. 16 is a vertical longitudinal section of a portion of the bed of the machine, showing a portion of the feed mechanism in front elevation. Fig. 17 is a cross-sectional view of a portion of the bed of the machine, showing a portion of the feed mechanism in end elevation, as seen from the left hand in Fig. 15. Fig. 18 is a cross-sectional view taken in line 0 c, Fig. 15, looking toward the righthand in said figure and showing a portion of the feed mechanism, said figure being drawn on an enlarged scale. Fig. 19 is a longitudinal section of a portion of one end of the feed-lever, showing the feed-dog in connection therewith. Fig. 20 is a detailed view of the loop-taker or shuttle as seen from the right hand in Fig. 2]., the end of the driving-shaft and the driver for rotating said shuttle being shown in dotted lines. Fig. 21 is a cross-sectional view of the shuttle, taken in dotted line (Z d, Fig. 20, looking toward the right hand in said figure and showing a portion of the actuating mechanism in connection therewith. Figs. 22 to 30, inclusively, are detached views of the loop'taker, the needle, and a portion of the needle-actuatingdevicesin operative relation to a piece of fabric to be stitched, said figures illustrating, respectively, certain successive positions of the aforesaid parts during the operation of forming a stitch. Figs. 31, 32, and 33 are front, side, and cross-sectional views, respectively, of the lower portion of the needle-bar, showing the resistance device for holding the upper thread against retractive movement. Fig. 3i is a side view of a portion of the shuttle or loop-taker and cap, showing the bearing or seat for the tension device for the lower-thread; and Fig. 35 is a similar view showing the tension device secured thereto. Fig. 30 is a front view of the tension device detached. Fig. 37 is a cross-sectional view of a portion of the shuttie and its tension device, taken in dotted line b b, Fig. 35. Figs. 38 and 39 are diagrammatie views showing the principal relative positions of the needle and shuttle dur- .ing one cycle of movements of the needlebar, said Fig. 38 showing a multiplicity of successive and relative positions of the needle, needle-bar, and the needle-bar-actuating crank and of the shuttle or loop-taker, and Fig. 39 showing by graphical diagram the relative paths of movement of the needle and shuttle and also illustrating their relative velocities. Fig. 40 is a diagrammatic view similar to Fig. 39, but upon a reduced scale, for illustrating a series of cycles of movement of the needle and shuttle, and particularly for illustrating the successive positions of the needle during the operations of inaugurating and completing a stitch in the peculiar manner and by the mechanism herein described.

The framework of the machine, which framework is designated in a general way by F and which may be of any suitable conformation, comprises the horizontal bed'plate 2, having the bracket 2 and the removable tl'iroat-plate 3 at one end thereof, the hollow upright l at the opposite end of the bedplate, the hollow horizontal arm 5 above and in hori- Zontal alinement with the bed-plate, and the vertical needle -bar-receiving head 6 at the outer end of the arm 5 and in vertical alinement with the throat-plate In the organization thereof herein shown and described the stitch-forming mechanism comprises, in part, a reciproeatory needle-bar supported at opposite ends for longitudinal movement in shiftable bearings in the head of the machine, a loop-taker or shuttle, supported for continuous rotary movement in a plane oblique to the path of movement of and below the needle-bar, and having a series of equidistantly-disposed loop-receiving spaces in the periphery thereof, the walls of which loop-receiving spaces constitute hooks adapted for engaging the loop of the needle-thread, means in operative connection with and adapted for simultaneously imparting comparative but relatively varying movements of a predetermined ratio to the needle-bar and loop-taker, and fabric-feeding mechanism in operative connection with and controlled by the needle-bar-actuating means, all of which will be hereinafter more fully described.

In the preferredembodiment of my invention herein shown and described the needlebar or needle-carrier (designated by N) and the presser-bar or fabric-clamp (designated by P) are axially coincident and practically constitute a unitary device, and therefore when referring to these parts as a unitary structure they will be hereinafter termed the combined fabric-clamp and needle-carrier.

The shuttle or loop-taker, which owing to its peculiar construction will be herein termed the three-hook shuttle or loop-taker, and which is designated in a general way by S, is in the form thereof herein shown somewhat similar in a general way to the shuttle or looptaker shown and described in my Patent l\'o. 558,662, dated April 21, 18%. In the present instance the loop-taker is shown peripherally supported on rolls below the bed plate .2 and needle-bar N for rotary movement in a plane obliquely to the path of movement of the needle-bar in a manner hereinafter described, and as clearly shown in Figs. 1, 2, and a of the drawings, said rolls frictionally engaging the edge or track 8 of the shuttle. Said loop-taker or shuttle S, which will usually be ofthe same general conformation as the shuttle described in my said patent, comprises, when the same is assembled, the annularlyrecessed or cup-shaped member 9,which memb'erconstitutes the sh uttle proper and has an inwardly-projecting stem or hub 9, the lower-thread guide 10, which guide constitutes the cap for the, cop case formed within the shuttle and has a cylindrical hub 10 and is revolubly carried upon the hub of the member 9, and the detent 12, extending into the hub 9' and removably holding the parts assembled. This detent or cop-holding device is in the nature of a headed pin split longitudinally, as at 12" at the head thereof, to form resilient holdingarms adapted for impinging the interior of the hub 9 of the member 9, as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 21 of the drawings. The lower thread-carrying bobbin 13, sometimes called the cop or spool, is revolubl y and removably supported uponthe hub 10 of the said removable cap. The shuttle or loop-taker S is provided at one side thereof with a tension device T adapted for regulating the tension of the lower thread, as

will be hereinafter more fully described.

The loop-taker or shuttle S, in the preferred form thereof herein shown, has a substantially annular needle-receiving groove 13, formed in the periphery thereof at one side of the track 8, adapted for receiving the point of the needle during the reciprocation of the needle-bar. Said loop-taker also has formed in the periphery thereof three equidistantlydisposed loop-receiving openings or spaces, (designated bye, f, and g, respectively) which openings or spaces extend transversely through the periphery or track 8 of the looptaker and form loop-engaginghooks 14, 15, and 16, respectively, said hooks being adapted for engaging the loops of the needle-thread as these are formed, and for carrying the same entirely around the loop-taker to inclose the lower thread 1V, carried by the loop-taker or shuttle S, to thereby form a lock-stitch, as will be hereinafter more fully described. Formed in one side of the shuttle or shuttle member 9, near the periphery thereof, are a series of driver-sockets 27, herein shown as sixin numher, arranged in three pairs, said pairs being preferably concentric to the axis of the loop-taker and equidistantly disposed relatively to each other as clearly shown in Figs. 20 and 21 of the drawings, which sockets are adapted for receiving the corresponding driving-pins 28 upon the driving-arms 29 of a shuttle-driver, (designated in a general way by H as will be hereinafter more fully described.

As a meansfor revolubly and peripherally supporting the shuttle or loop-taker S in a plane at an inclination to the path of movement of the reciprocating needle-bar N and obliquely to the axial line of the shuttle-ac tuating shaft, and also as a means for maintaining a fixed relation in the movement of the shuttle relative to the needle-bar, l have provided an antifrictional shuttle-carrier which in the form thereof herein shown comprises a series of circumferentially disposed track-rolls 7, herein shown as four in number, revolubly carried upon laterally-adjustable track-roll carriers 7 These carriers are herein shown in the nature of studs having crank-pins or eccentrically-disposed shanks 7", which extend through transverse recesses in the bracket 2 and are provided with nuts 7' at the ends thereof, by means of which said studs are ad 3' ust-ably secured to said bracket and by means of which the positions of the track-rolls may be changed relatively to the periphery of the shuttle which they support, as will be understood by reference to Figs. 2 and 4 of the drawings. These trackrolls are or may be of duplicate construction and interchangeable with one another, and will in practice he so disposed relatively to the periphery of the shuttle that at no time in the rotation of said shuttle will more than one of the loop-receiving spaces be contiguous to a track-roll. These track-rolls will in prac tice be peripherally grooved to receive and engage the peripheral track 8 of the shuttle, which track is preferably wedge-shaped in cross-section, as most clearly shown in Fig. 21 of the drawings.

In order to provide a clear space unobstructed by supporting means at the upper edge of the shuttle contiguous to the throatplate, the track-rolls are so disposed relatively to the periphery of said shuttle that two of said track-rolls engage the periphery of said shuttle at points each side of and below the axis of said shuttle, and the other two'trackrolls engage the periphery of said shuttle at points slightly above the axis of the shuttle and considerably remote from a vertical line drawn through said axis, thereby leaving at the upper portion of the shuttle a clear space of considerable magnitude immediately adjacent to the throat-plate and path of movement of the needle through which the loop of the needle-thread, after being carried around the shuttle to inclose the lower thread, may readily pass without interference from the supporting means during the operation of forming the stitch. This organization leaves a considerable portion of the upper face of the shuttle accessible from above, which is advantageous in sewing-machines of this class. It will also be seen by reference to Figs. 3 and 4 of the drawings that the bed-plate2 of the machine terminates, at the free end thereof, at a point between the upright 4 and the axial line of the needle-bar, and that the sh uttle, the sh u ttle-carrier, and shuttle-driver are all located forward of this end of the bedplate and are readily accessible from the working end of the machine.

As a convenient means for facilitating the inspection and cleaning of the shuttle the throat-plate 3, which is most clearly shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings, is made to extend from the front to the rear side of the bed-plate of the machine and practically constitutes an IIO extension of the bed-plate or the working table of said machine and is removably fixed to the bed-plate of the machine by means of screws 3, the throat 8" thereof being in vertical alinement with the needle-bar N. It will be seen that by the removal of said throatplate the shuttle, slnittle-carrier, and driver are fully exposed to view and are accessible, practically, at all sides thereof.

The means for adjusting the track-rolls relatively to the shuttle is or may be substantially the same as the track-bearing mechanism described and claimed in United States Patent No. 551,106, granted to me December 10, 1895, to which reference may be had for a more detailed description of these parts, the novelty thereof in the present instance residing in the particular organization relatively to and in combination with certain other features of the sewing-machine, as will be pointed out in the claims.

The driving or actuating apparatus or mechanism for the needlebar, loop-taker, and feed device of the sewing-machine is practically a unitary mechanism com prising a train of three cooperatively-connected actuating mechanisms, one of which mechanisms directly constitutes an actuating mechanism for the needlebar, another for the loop-taker, and another for the feed device, and all of which mechanisms coact to effect a predetermined comparativerelation of movement between said needle-bar, loop-taker, and feed devicev The combined needle-bar, loop-taker, and feed-actuating mechanism, in the preferred organization thereof herein shown and described, comprises two remotely disposed shafts D and D, located horizontally one above the other in parallelism, the shaft D being in direct operative relation with the needle-bar N and the shaft D being in direct operative relation with the loop-taker or shuttle S; an intermediate vertical shaft D aoneto-one train of gears E, operatively connecting the needle-bar-actuating shaft D and the intermediate shaft D ,and a two-to-three train of gears E, operatively connecting the intermediate shaft D and the loop-taker actuating shaft D.

As a convenient means for accelerating the upward stroke of the needle-bar or for effecting a relatively slow downward stroke and a relatively rapid upward stroke of the needlebar, whereby the loop of the needle-thread may be drawn entirely off from the preceding hook of the looptaker and out of the path of movement of the succeeding hook, as hereinafter more fully described, the upper horizontal shaft D, which will hereinafter be termed the needle-bar-actuating shaft and which is journaled at or near its opposite ends in suitable bearings 30 in the arm 5 of the machine, is operatively connected with the needle-bar by means of a linkage connection comprising a crank 31, carried at the forward end of the needle-bar-aotuating shaft, and a connecting-link 32, pivotally connected at its upper end with the crank and pivotally connected at its lower end to the needle-bar at one side the longitudinal axis of the needle-bar. This linkage connection is so disposed rela tively to the needle-bar and actuating-shaftthat its neutral or deadcenter position will be inclined relatively to the longitudinal axis of the needle-bar, as illustrated most clearly in Fig. 11 of the drawings. It is desired in this connection, however, that other means than that herein shown and described for effecting a relatively slow downward movement and a relatively rapid upward movement of the needle-bar may be employed within the scope and limits of my invention.

The crank 31, whichispreferably secured to the outer en d of the shaft D,is shown provided with a weighted extension 31 at the free end thereof and is provided at its opposite end with a transverse elongated bearing 31, in which is jonrnaled the stud or pin 32 on the upper end of the connecting-link 32, which link is pivotally secured by another stud or pin at the lower end thereof, and at one side the axis of the needle-bar to a strap 33, ad justably clamped or secured to the needlebar, as most clearly shown in Figs. 11, 12, and 13 of the drawings. 1

As a means for directly actuating the looptaker or shuttle from the horizontal shaft D and as a means for holding said shuttle in a fixed peripheral relation with the peripherally-disposed track-rolls and concentric to a fixed axis of rotation and thereby prevent radial movement of the shuttle when a loop-receiving space or opening comes opposite or contiguous to a supportingperiphery of a track-roll during the rotation of said shuttle I have provided, in connection with the shaft D, a shuttle-supporti ng driver H,which driver in the form thereof herein shown has a series of radially-disposed arms 29, each having at the free end thereof two outwardly-projecting shuttle drivil'lg and supporting pins 28, the pins of the successive arms of the driver being adapted for successively engaging in the corresponding driving-sockets 27 of the shuttle for rotating the same and also for maintaining said shuttle against radial movement or vibratory movement during the rotation thereof.

By reference to Figs. 20 and 21 of the drawings, which clearly illustrate the relations of the shuttle S and driver, it will be seen that each pair of driving-sockets 27 is located in close proximity to and but slightly one side of aperipheral loop-receiving opening. Furthermore, it will be seen, owing to the vertical inclination of the shuttle, that during the rotation of said shuttle the drivingpins of the arms of the driver successively engage the shuttle when said arms have advanced to a position slightly below a horizontal line drawn through the axis of the driver, and that when one or two arms of the driver is in or approximately in a vertical position both driving-pins of said arm or IIO arms are extended into their respective receiving or driving sockets in said shuttle, thereby so taking hold of said shuttle as to control the same against. lateral or swinging movement as the loop-receivin g openings immediately adjacent to said pins pass over the periphery of the supporting-rolls, notwithstanding only four such rolls are employed. This construction and organization of shuttle and driver therefor, as will be readily seen, materially reduces peripheral frictional wear to which the shuttle would be subjected if it were entirely dependent upon the track-rolls for support, and consequently is conducive to accuracy in operation.

The one-to-0ne train of gears E, which operatively connect the needle-bar-actuating shaft D and the intermediate or vertical shaft D consists, in the form thereof herein shown, of two substantially duplicate bevcl-gears d and d, respectively, in intermeshing engagement and fixed one to the needle-bar-actuating shaft and the other to the intermediate shaft.

The t\vo-to-three train of gears operatively connecting the intermediate shaft D and shuttle-actuating shaft D consists of a relatively small bevel-gear (1 secured to the intermediate shaft, and a relatively large bevel-gear cl flsecuredto the shuttle-actuating shaft, the difference in size of these two last-mentioned bevel-gears being such as to secure a comparative velocity to the shuttleactuating shaft and intermediate shaft, the

ratio of which will be as two to three, the

shuttle-actuating shaft making but two complete revolutions during three complete revolutions of the intermediate shaft. This particular organization of driving mechanism hercinbefore described, referring more particularly to the arrangement of the one-to- 'one train of gears and the two-to-three train of gears relatively to the needle-bar-actuating shaft and intermediate shaft and to the intermediate shaft and shuttle actuating shaft, respectively, secures to theneedle-baractuating shaft and intermediate shaft simultaneous movements of coinciding velocities which,for the purpose hereinafter described, is of material importance in the efficient operation of the machine and also secures simultaneous movements to the shuttle-actuatingshaft and intermediate shaft of relatively varying velocities of a predetermined ratio, as is requisite for the proper operation of the shuttle relatively to the needle-bar. The intermediate shaft D in the organization of the sewing-machine mechanism herein shown and described not only constitutesa convenient operative connection between the needle-bar-actuating shaft and shuttle actuating shaft, but also constitutes an actuator for the feed mechanism of the sewing-machine, as will be hereinafter described.

From the foregoing description, and by a comparison of the several figures of the drawings, it will be seen that the organization of I the bearings for the same performsa certain and approximately equal proportion of the entire work, thereby securing a more perfect balancing of the working parts and also securing a greater accuracy and durability in the operation of the machine than would be the case if one shaft carried a much larger proportion of the load than another.

The combined needle-bar and fabric-clamp, in the preferred form thereof herein shown, consists, as before stated, of the needle-bar N and presser-barP, supported for independent reciprocatory movement one within the other. The needle-bar is preferably in the nature of a round rod, symmetrical from end to end and axially bored at the lower end thereof to receive the needle, which needle is held in place in said needle-bar in the usual manner by a set-screw 35. The presser-bar, which is' preferably of cylindrical form and constitutes a guide for the needle-bar, is supported for sliding movement at its lower end in a vertical bearing formed in the lower end of the head 6 of the machine-frame, and is similarly supported at its upper end in a hearing 36, preferably adjustably secured to the upper end of the head of the machine and adapted for adjustment longitudinally of the presser-bar. This bearing 36 at the upper end of the presser-bar will usually be, externally screw-threaded and screwed into the upper end of the head of the machine, and (in this organization) constitutes the adjusting member of the n'essure-regulating device for said presser-bar, the other member of said pressure-regu la-ting device consisting of a spiral spring 37, surrounding the needle-bar N and interposed between the upper end of the presser-bar and the outer end Wall of the journal-bearing, as clearly illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12 of the drt-twings.

Removabl y secured to the lower end of the presser-ba-r by means of a screw 38 is a presserfoot 35!, which may be of any usual or suitable construction. The adjustable bearing'36 and resistance-sprin g 37 in the organization thereof herein shown and described constitutes a simple and effective pressure-regulating device for the presser-bar, and, in operation, when it is desired to increase or decrease the effective pressure of the presser-foot upon the fabric being operated upon it is only necessary to screw the bearing 36 inward or outward, which increases or decreases the effective resistance of the spring 37 with relation to the presser-bar, as will be readily understood by a reference to said Figs. 11. and 12 of the drawings.

As will be seen by reference to Figs. 11, 12, and 13 of the drawings, the presser-bar, at the middle portion thereof, is for a considerable length cut away at one side thereof, as shown at 39, to form a slideway for the strap which forms the connection between the needle-bar and its actuating mechanism, said slideway 39 being of suiiicient length to permit a free unobstructed reciprocation of the needle-bar, irrespective of its position relative to the presser-bar or when the pressenbar is in a depressed or elevated position.

As a convenient, simple, and effective means for elevating and depressing the presser-bar P, and also as means for preventing the accidental rotation of said presser-bar, I have provided in connection therewith a presser-bar-lifting shaft or rock-shaft 40,

which carries at its forward end, adjacent to said presser-bar, the crank -arn1 41. The outer end 41 of this crank engages in a camgroove 4-2 between the fingers t2 at the outer end of a laterally-projecting arm 43, which is fixed at its inner end, as shown at at in Figs. 11, 12, and 13, to the presser-bar. Said crankarm 41 has bearingfaces 11 in engagement with opposite sides, respectively, of the arm 4:13, which faces are adapted for preventing accidental rotative movement of said presserbar. As a means for operating or rocking said presser-bar-lifting shaft to raise or lower the presser-bar, this shaft is shown provided at opposite ends thereof with two oppositely-disposed laterally-proj ecting rocking arms 45 and 46, respectively, the one 45 of which extends through a transverse opening 47 in and is operable from the outside of the horizontal arm 5 of the machine and will be herein termed the presser-bar-depressing arm. The other arm 4:6 is in the nature of a cam and is adapted not only for elevating the presser-ba-r through the medium of the presser-bar-actuating shaft, but is also adapted for simultaneously operating a tension device, (designated in a general way by 'l,) as will be hereinafter more fullydescribed, it constituting a presser-bar-lifting arm and tension-device operator, it may properly be so termed. 'lhe presser-bar-depressing arm i5 is designed to be operated by hand somewhat after the manner of the presserbar-lifting arms or levers in sewing-machines of ordinary construction, whereas the presserbar-lifting arm 4-0 is designed to be operated by the knee of the operator from below the bed of the machine, and for this purpose I have provided in connection with said lifting-arm 46 a vertically-disposed lifting-rod as, which is usually pivotally connected at its upper end with said arm 4:6, and may be supported for sliding movement in a vertical bearing 49 in the framework of the machine.

The lower end of the lifting-rod l8 projects somewhat below the bed of the machine and may be operated by a lifting-lever 18, fulcrumed upon a stud 19, secured to a bracket 20, which bracket may be fixed to the table 21,(shown in dotted lines in Fig. 4,) upon which the machineis supported. This operatin g-lever 18 is shown of the socalled bellcrank type, one arm of which is in bearing engagement with the lower end of the liftingrod l8 and the other arm of which depends into a position to be engaged and shifted by the knee of the operator.

As will be seen by reference to Fig. at of the drawings, force applied to the depending arm of the lifting-lever 18 in the direction of the arrow in said figure will push the lifting-rod upward and will, through the medium of the presser-bar-lifting arm 4.6, partially rotate the presser-bar-lifting shaft 40 and lift the presser-bar from the position shown in Figs. 4 and 11 to the position shown in Fig. 12. This operation also causes the arm at) to actuate a tension device, (designated in a general way by T,) which is connected with the arm of the machine at points in vertical alinement with the path of movement of said lifting-arm 46, as will be hereinafter more fully described. The operation of the presser-bar-operating mechanism will be readily understood by a comparison of Figs. 3, 4:, 5, ti, 7, 11, 12, and 13 of the drawings with each other and with the preceding description of the same.

In the preferred form thereof herein shown and described (see Figs. 15 to 19, inclusively) the feed mechanism for the sewing-machine comprises a feeddog 50, which may be of any suitable conformation, which feed-dog is ser-.

rated at its upper edge and extends through the recess or throat 3" in the throat-plate 3; a feed-dog carrier or feed-lever 51, pivotally carried for vertical and horizontal oscillation by a bracket or feed-lever carrier 52; a link 52: connecting the feedlever carrier and "feeddog and adapted for maintaining the feeddog in substantial parallelism with the line of its longitudinal movement; a feed-leveractuating cam 54: in adjustable rotative connection with the intermediate shaft D of the machine and adapted (through the medium of said shaft and connections hereinafter described) for imparting alternating vertical and horizontal oscillations to the feed-lever, and a regulating device, hereinafter described, in connection with and adapted for adjusting the cam 54: laterally relatively to its rotating means to increase or decrease the effective throw of the feed-lever and thereby regulate the feed. As illustrated most clearly in Figs. 15 and 1.9, the feed-dog is pivotally connected at 50' to the forward end of the feedlevcr 51, and is pivot-ally connected at 50" to the forward end of the parallel link 53, said pivotal points being in alinement and in parallelism with the path of movement of the fabric-engaging portion 50 of the feed-dog 50. The opposite end of the link 5b is pivotally connected with the outer end of the feed-lever carrier 52, said link being so connected to said feed-dog and feed-lever carrier as to have at all times a parallel movement with relation to the forward end of the feed-lever or that end of the feed-lever intermediate to the feeddog and feed-lever carrier, as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 15 of the drawings, in which two positions of said parts are shown by full and dotted lines, respectively. The feed-lever carrier is shown having a pivotpin 55 at the inner end thereof journaled at one end in a bearing 55, preferably formed integral with the bed-plate of the machine at the under side thereof, said feed lever carrier being held against longitudinal displacement by means of a shouldered screw 56, screwed into the inner end of the pivot-pin 55 and bearing against the inner face of the bearing 55, as illustrated most clearly in Fig. 18 of the drawings.

In the usual form thereof herein shown the feed-lever 51 is bifurcated at that end adjacent to the intermediate shaft D to form cam-engaging arms and 60, adapted for engaging the feed-lever-actuating cam 54 at opposite sides of the axis thereof, as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 15 of the drawings. This feed-lever-actuatin g cam 54, which will herein be termed the feedcam, is, in the form thereof herein shown, in the nature of a collar having a longitudinal opening or bore 61 therethrough adapted for receiving a sliding cam-shifting wedge 62, carried upon and adapted for longitudinal movement with relation to the intermediate shaft D said bore being obliquely disposed relatively to and preferably intersecting the longitudinal axis of the collar or feed-cam 54. This wedge constitutes the regulator for determining the effective movement of the feedlever, said wedge being of cylindrical form and being provided at its upper end with a circumferentially-grooved collar or head 63 and beingadjusted longitudinally of the shaft D by means of an adjusting device, (designated in a general way by G,) carried in the frame of the machine and in operative connection with the sliding wedge or adjusting member 62, as will be hereinafter more fully described.

As a means for fixedly securing the feedeam as against longitudinal movement upon the shaft D said feed-cam is preferably supported between the relatively small gear d" at the lower end of said shaft and the lower journal-bearing 64 of said shaft, as clearly shown in Figs. 4, 5, 8, 9, and 10 of the drawings, and as a means for so securing said feedcam that it shall rotate with said shaft and at the same time be shiftable laterally thereof, said cam has at its under face a slide 66, which is fitted for sliding movement in a slideway formed in the upper face of the hub of the bevel-gear d which gear is fixedly secured to the shaft D as will be understood by reference to Fig. 4 of the drawings.

'lheadjusting device G for the wedge 62, in the form thereof herein shown, is in the nature of a stud journaled for rotary movement in a bearing (37, formed in the side wall of the upright or column of the frame, and said stud has a crank-pin US the inner end of which engages in the peripheral groove 69 in the collar or head 63 of the sliding wedge 62, as will be seen by reference to Fig. 4 of the drawings. This adjusting device is re movably secured in the bearing 67 by means of a detent-catch 70, seated in a transverse opening 71, formed in the stud or adjusting device G and engaging in an annular groove 72, formed in the inner face of said bearing (37, the detent-catch being normally held in its interlocked engagement with the faces of the said groove 72 by means of a spring 73, seated in the transverse opening 71 and bearing against the inner end of said detentcatch, as clearly shown in said Fig. 4. For convenience in rotating the adjusting device and for determining the extentof said rotation with accuracy, said adjusting device is provided at its outer end with a knurled head 75, and is also provided at a point contiguous to the outer face of the bearing 67 or outer face of the end wall of the upright 4 with a graduated indicator plate or dial 76, adapted to be read in connection with a pointer 77, secured to said end wall with its point in close proximity to the graduated periphery of said dial. (See 1 and 4.)

By means of the construction and organization of feed mechanism, and of regulating means therefor, as hereinbefore described, it will be seen that the throw or effective hori zontal movement of the feed-lever may be increased or decreased to a limited extent by simply turning the adjusting device G to the right or left, as the case may be, which operation will raise or lower the cam shifting wedge 62 relatively to the feedoam 54 and shift said feed-cam laterally relativelyto the axis of the shaft D causing the same to describe a larger or smaller circle during its ro tation, and thereby increasing or decreasing the throw of the feed-lever, as will be readily understood by a comparison of Figs. 8, 9, and 10 of the drawings.

As a means for securing the proper tension to the upper and lower threads RV and \V, respectively, I have provided two tension devices, (designated in a general way by T and T respectively.) The tension device T is supported, preferably, in close proximity to the source of supply of the upper thread W, and is adapted for regulating the tension thereof, whereas the tension device T is carried by the cap or thread-guiding member 10 of the shuttle, as clearly shown in Figs. 21 to 30, inclusive, and is adapted for regulating the tension of the lower thread w. As a means for preventing the accidental retraction or premature taking up of the needlethread W (after the loop L has been formed by the descent of the needle and prior to its thread or needle-thread \Y sufficient to pre- I vent a retracting movement or baekwarth slipping of said needle-thread d uringthe very earliest part of the upward stroke of the needle-bar, and for maintaining said resistance until the proper heck of the shuttle engages the loop of the needle-thread, and as a means for exerting an upward or drawing stress upon the needle-thread in excess of the normal resistance of said thread during the latter part of the ascending movement of the needle-bar, so as to quickly take up the loop end of the needle-thread after it has passed completely around and is released from the shuttle, and to draw said loop into close proximity with the fabric and out of the path of movement of the hook from which said loop was released, so as to prevent said hook from accidentally reengaging this loop, I have provided, in connection with the upper end of the needle-bar, a retracting device T, which engages the needle-thread at a point intermediate to the tension device T and the resistance device T and acts during the latter stages of the upward stroke of the needle-bar to draw said loop end above the path of movement of the loop-engaging hooks, as will be hereinafter more particularly described in connection with the description of the operation of the machine in forming the stitches.

Briefly stated, the tension device T, in the form thereof herein shown, consists of the axially-recessed carrying member 22, removably secured to the upper wall of the arm 5 of the machine with its axis in vertical alinement with the cam-face of the arm 46 of the presserbar-lifting shaft %0; a thread-carrying disk 23, carried upon said member 22, near the up per end thereof; a friction-plate or tension- :spring stop 2% in normal bearing con tact with the thread-carrying disk 23; a liftingpin for said friction-plate; a tension-spring 26, carried upon said member 22 and bearing against said friction-plate, and an adjustingnut screwed upon the upper end of said member 22 and adapted for regulating the tension of said spring. The carrying member 22 preferably has its lower end extended into the interior of the arm 5 of the machine and has its upper end diametrically reduced to form a bearing or spindle 57 for the thread-carrying disk, as more clearly shown in Figs. 4:, 5, 6, and 7 of the drawings. The upper end or spindle 57 of the carrying member 22 is slotted longitudinally, as shown at 58, to form a guideway for the central portion or bridge 2a of the friction-plate 2a, which plate extends through said slot, as shown in Figs. 6

l l i and 7. The axial recess through the carrying member 22 is diametrically enlarged at the upper end thereof to form a stop-face at 22 for the head of the lifting-pin 25 to limit the downward movement thereof. This liftingpin 25, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, projects at its lower end beyond the extreme lower end of the carrying member 22 and bears upon and is adapted to be operated by the cam-face it) of the arm it As will be understood by reference to Figs. 3, 4, 5, (l, and 7 of the drawings, the tension device '1 is controlled, in so far as its effective or ineffective operation is concerned, by the operation of the presser-bar-lifting shaft l0. It will be observed that when the prcsser-bar is depressed thelifting-pin of the tension device T is in its lowest position and the spring of said tension device presses the frictionplate in close contact with the tln'ead-carrying disk 23, increasing the resistance to rotation of said disk and consequently rendering the tension device operative for the purpose intended, whereas when the presser-bar of the machine is elevated the lifting-pin 25 of the tension device T is lifted by the arm 46 upon the presser-bar-lifting shaft, which, as shown in Fig. 7, carries the friction-plate 24: away from and leaves the tln'ead-earryin g disk 23 free to rotate without resistance. This construction and organization of the tension device, whereby it is controlled by the operation of the presser-bar, is of considerable importance, as it enables the operator to withdraw the work after lifting the presserbar without regard to the tension of the thread and without the necessity of drawing offa considerable length of the upper thread N from the spool by hand, as is customary with sewing-machines of ordinary construction, to prevent breaking of the thread in the vicinity of the needle.

The tension device '1 for the lower thread \Y is in the nature of a disk slit from the periphery thereof inwardly, as shown most clearly in Fig. 36 of the drawings, to form a thread-receiving groove 80 and a resilient threadimpinging arm 81. This tension dc vice, as before stated, is carried by the cap or thread-guiding member 10 of the shuttle, it being removably secured to the outer face thereof by means of a set-screw 82, as shown most clearly in Fig. The lower thread 7', which is carried by the bobbin of the shuttle in the usual manner, is threaded through the transverse opening 83 in the cap 10 of the shuttle and is carried over and under the resilient arm 81 of the tension device '1" in the manner shown in Figs. 22 to 30, inclusively. This tension disk or device T will preferably be somewhat dishec or be eonvexed relatively to the face of the cap 10, upon which. it bears, so that for the purposes of increasing or decreasing the tension of the lower thread XV it is only necessary to adjust the set-screw 82 inward or outward, so that the resilient arm 81 of said disk will bear with thread, as will be a greater or less pressure upon the lower seen by reference toFigs. 22 to 30, inclusively, and to the detail views of said devices shown in Figs. 3% to 37, inclusively. This tension device, however, is automatic in its action within certain limits, since the larger size of thread bends outward the said arm to a greater extent, thereby producing a greater friction on the thread. Hence when properly constructed the device seldom needs to be adjusted.

The resistance device T which is connected with the needle-bar at the lower end thereof, as before described, and which 18 adapted for holding the upper thread against premature retractive movement, is somewhat similar in general construction to the tension device T, itconsisting of a thread-carrying disk or peripherally-grooved roller 85, carried for rotary movement upon a stud 86 at the outer end of a bracket or arm 87, secured to the lower end of the needlebar, as illustrated most clearly in Figs. 31, 32,and 33; an adjusting-nut- SS screwed upon the outer end of said stud, and a spiral spring 89, carried upon said stud between the thread-carrying disk and adjusting-nut. This spring 89, as will be seen by a comparison of Figs. 6, 7, 31, 32, and 33 of the drawings, is relatively small as compared to the spring 26 of the tension device T, and will consequently have no material effect upon the normal tension of the upper thread W, which is wholly governed by the main holdback or tension device T. The function of the resistance device, as before stated, is to prevent accidental retraction of the needle-thread or upper thread during the very first part of the upward stroke of the needle-bar and at a point below the eye of the needle and to prevent accidental drawing up of the loop L before the same is engaged by the hook of the loop-taker, which drawing up of the loop might be occasioned by the extreme tautness of the upper thread, which is always more or less elastic, this elasticity of the needle-thread having a tendency to retract or draw back the slack created by the descent of the needle in forming the loop L to be engaged by a hook of the looptaker or shuttle. In practice the resistance device T will be so regulated in its effective operation relatively to the main tension device T- as to hold the upper thread against retractive movement caused by its own elasticity, but will not have sufficient power to interfere with the feed or forward movement of said thread. This will be readily understood by reference to Fig'. 4 of the drawings.

The retracting device T, which, as before stated, is adapted for taking up the increment of the loop end immediately preceding the final drawing up of the same to form the stitch and for drawing said loop end out of the path of movement of and preventing the rengagement thereof by the hook of the looptaker or shuttle, is, in the form thereof herein shown, in the nature of a projecting arm carried by the needle-barat the upper end thereof and provided with an eye 90 at the outer end thereof for engaging the upper thread W as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings. This retracting device is so disposed and operative relatively to the tension device T that the thread-en gaging end of said retracting device will, when the needle-bar is in its depressed position, be located somewhat below the horizontal path of the upper thread 7 or below of the thread-carrying disk of the tension device T, and in consequence thereof the retracting device will, during the first part of the upward stroke of the needle-bar, have no retracting effect upon the needle-thread and will only be effective for this purpose during the latter part of its upward stroke, at which part of its upward stroke it will, owing to the increased distance of the thread-engaging eye from the tension device T, draw upon the upper thread, and owing to the effective resistance of the tension device T the entire ret-ractive movement of the upper thread mustdie-bar, to wit, at one side of the longitudinal axis thereof, as before stated and as shown most clearly in Figs. 11, 12, and 13 of the drawings, which connection secures to the needlebar an upward and downward movement of relatively varying velocities, the upward movement thereof being accelerated, as will be understood by reference to Fig. 39 of the drawings, which is a graphical diagram illustrating certain successive and relative positions of the needle and shuttle and also illustrating the ratio of variation in the velocity of the needle during its upward and downward stroke.

Referring to Figs. 22 to 30, incl usively, which figures illustrate nine successive positions assumed by the shuttle,- needle, needle-bar, and a portion of the needle-bar-actuating mechanism in the operation of formingastitch, it is desired to state that while the successive positions of the end portion of the needlethread loop are substantially correct the configuration of the intermediate portion is slightly modified to more clearly show opposite port-ions of said loop.

The machine herein. shown and described is especially designed for forming what is known as a lock-stitch; but it will be understood that by reversing the movement of the shuttle or feed mechanism a chain-stitch might be formed. For this purpose the shuttle S is shown having the loop-receiving openings 6,

I a horizontal line drawn through the periphery f, and g of such conformation that the opposing walls of each opening will constitute opposite loop-engaging hooks adapted one for engagen'ient with the loop of the needle-thread when the sh uttle is driven in one direction, and the other is adapted for engagement with said loop when the shuttle is driven in the opposite direction, and as a means for reversing the movement of the shuttle I have shown, partially in dotted and partially in full lines in Fig. l of the drawings, a pair of oppositely-disposed rcversinggears, which in practice will be connected together and supported for a shifting movement upon and longitudinally of the shuttle-actuating shaft D and adapted for alternately meshing with the bevel-gear d at the lower end of the intermediate shaft D Suitable shifting means (not shown) will he provided in connection with said shiftable gears for throwing one or the other of them into or out from working mesh with the gear of the intermediate shaft, as will be readily understood by reference to said Fig. -l. It will be understood, however, that my present invention is not limited to the particular organization of mechanism above described for reversing the shuttle to form the chain-stitch, as other means might be employed in connection with the shuttle actuating mechanism for accomplishing this end. It is also desired to state, in this connection, that the form of loop-engaging hooks of the loop -taker might also be variously modified (especially where the machine is designed only for forming a lock-stitch) without departure from my present invention.

As a preamble to the description of the operation of the machine in forming a lock stitch it is deemed desirable to state that with the organization of shuttle and needle actuating mechanism herein shown and described the shuttle and needle-bar are so timed in their movements relatively to one another that the ratio of movement thereof is as two to three, ihe shuttle making two complete revolutions to three complete rcciprocations of the needle-bar. seen that at each complete upward or downward stroke of the needle-bar the peripheral travel of the shuttle is substantially equal to one-third of the length of the circumference of said shuttle, and in consequence of the equidistant peripheral disposition of the three loop-receiving openings or spaces 6, and g relatively to each other and their peculiar op- 3 erative arrangement relatively to the reciprocations of the needle, as regresented in Figs. 22 to 30 of the drawings, the needle will at each descent or complete downward stroke of the needle-bar come in close proximity to, but slightly in advance of, a 1'1eedlethreadloop-ei'igaging space or opening and in position to insure the engagement of the loop i formed by said downward stroke of the neodle by the hook of said adjacent loop-receiving space, and it will be further observed that at each complete reciprocation of the needle Thus it will be i I one of the loop-receiving spaces of the shuttle will be carried past the loop-engaging position, and the successive loops formed by the needle will be successively engaged by the several hooks in the alternating order of their rotation.

Referring to the diagran'i Fig. 38, the dotted circle R represents the circuit or path of movement of the needle-bar-actuating crank. The parallel vertical lines R and R respectively, representthe paths of movement of the needle and its connection, and the large dotted circle R represents the circuit or path of movement of the loop-engaging hooks of i the loop-taker or shuttle. The dotted circle R, which represents the circuit of the crank, is shown divided by dot-s 7L, 1) 7:, 1, 711,02, 0, p, q, r, s, 2, u, v, and 11;, respectively, into sixteen aliquot parts, which represent sixteen successive positions of the crank during one complete rotation thereof, and upon the vertical line R' is a series of indicating-marks which coincide in number with the dots of the circle R, which marks are designated 7b, t", j, Z, m, a, 0,19, q, r, s, i, a, r, and w, respectively, and represent sixteen successive positions of the needle, corresponding to the aforesaid sixteen successive positions of the crank, and the large circle R, which represents the periphery of the shuttle, is divided by radial lines 71. 1' j k Z m 47?, 0 23 1' 3 1 a, 1: and 1c, and 71., 2', f l", m it, and 0 respectively, into twenty-four aliquot parts, representing twenty-four successive positions of a loop-engaging hook of the shuttle during one and one half reciprocations of the needle, the sum of the spaces between the lines designated by 71 to 20*, al phabctically and inclusively, expressing the distance traversed by one of the loop-ei'igaging hooks of the shuttle at each complete rei eiprocation of the needle, and the sum of the spaces between the lines designated by 76 to 0 alphabetically and inclusively, expressing the distance traversed by one of the hooks of said shuttle during one-half of a complete re 1 ciprocation of the needle, that is, during one complete upward or downward stroke thereof Referring to the graphical diagram, Fig. 39, the full horizontal line 0 and the full curvilinear line 0' represent, respectively, the or dinates or the respective paths of movement of the shuttle and needle-bar, said diagram representing the rclati ve positions of the shuttle and needle-bar during one complete reciprocation of the latter. The vertical divisionlines (designated by O in said figure) represent sixteen successive positions of the shuttle and needle-bar, corresponding with the sixteen successive positions thereof represented in Fig. 38. The points of intersection of the vertical division-lines O with the curvilinear line 0 are designated by 77., t", j, k, I, m, n, o, p, q, r, s, i, 11, r, and w, respectively, and the distances of these points of intersection above or below the horizontal dotted line 0 represent the successive posi- 

